It is very important to plant the right tree in the right place, not only for safety reasons but efficiency as well.  Deciduous trees (trees that shed their leaves in the winter) are best planted on the west or southwest side.  There they will provide shade in the summer, helping to cool buildings.  In the winter, the bare branches of these trees will let sunshine through to provide warmth.  Evergreens planted on the North and West can help shield outside walls from winds in the winter.  This can reduce your heating costs.

 Placing low-growing trees under or near power lines will not only help beautify your property, but also help prevent service problems in the future.  Any tree that matures at 20 feet in height or less in its natural form (small sized trees) can be planted near power lines.  These trees should be planted 25 feet away from power poles.  Small tree examples include flowering dogwood, redbud, snowdrift crabapple, Allegheny serviceberry, Washington hawthorn, Newport plum, and dwarf fruit trees.

 Medium sized trees should be kept at least 40 feet away from power lines.  Medium sized trees include Sugar maple, Norway maple, Summerset maple, Autumn fantasy maple, Oak trees (keep trimmed).  Large trees should be kept at least 60 feet away from power lines: Pine (all kinds), Pin oak, Valley oak, Walnut, Sycamore (all types), and others.

 Your local power company can provide more information for you.  They can also be relied on to periodically prune or remove trees near power lines.  They prune only what is necessary for electric safety and reliability.

Here’s what you should do:

Give your car a thorough hand washing, inside and out, and do it the right way.

Clean and vacuum inside first.

Make sure you have soap that’s specifically for cars.

Never wash your car in direct sunlight.

Use a hose with a mist-spray nozzle to wet down the car and wash away debris.

Using a bucket with tepid water and soap, sponge down all areas of the car gently, rinsing the sponge frequently. Do the fender and bumper areas last.

Blast the undercarriage and wheel wells with the hose to remove as much salt buildup as you can.

Dry the vehicle lightly with a chamois or natural-fiber drying cloth.

Remember to clean the windows and mirrors!

Stay away from automated, commercial car washes on busy, winter-thaw days. Many of them recycle a certain portion of their water, to the point that they’re washing with salty water at those times. Otherwise, they’re alternatives for keeping your underbody clean and for when it’s too cold to hand-wash.

Look for stone chips, sand abrasions and rust. Look over the body completely for stone chips, including smaller surface nicks and scratches from traction sand thrown up by trucks. Repair them immediately with a touch-up kit (a small bottle of touch-up paint plus a special brush for application, usually inexpensive and available at the dealership). Make sure the spot is clean and dry, without any loose or sharp edges, and apply primer if bare metal is exposed. Have a body shop repair larger patches of rust.

Lubricate your locks and hinges. Consult with your owner’s manual and use a graphite lubricant on your locks if recommended. Applying a small amount of petroleum-based lubricant to door and trunk hinges might also silence any creaking that started during winter.

Inspect your weather-stripping. Get any that looks mildewy, cracked, or brittle replaced right away. According to advice from the International Carwash Association, spraying weather-stripping with silicone spray will ensure that the water will bead away.

Inspect your car’s underbody for rust and winter damage. If there are any suspicious areas, have a mechanic look at them, and fix them immediately if needed. Pay special attention to brake components (sticky calipers, corroded brake lines), and exhaust components (rusted clamps, crumbling tailpipes, holes forming in muffler) that might have salt or slush damage. Suspension and steering pieces such as bushings, strut mounts, springs and tie rods are also susceptible to winter damage.

Check and clean the mechanical ventilation system

Clean the fans and filters of your ventilation system regularly to keep it running at peak efficiency.  Check the manufacturer’s manual for instructions.

Clean or replace the furnace

Look at the filter in your furnace and clean or replace it. A dirty filter makes your furnace and air conditioner work harder and use more energy. Then have a professional check your furnace. If you need replacement parts or a new furnace, it’s better to do it in the spring when you have time to shop around and get the best deal.

Clear snow from air intakes, exhausts and meters

In the early spring there might be snow or ice clogging the air intakes of ventilation systems, exhausts from the dryer or furnace, and on meters. Clean this out to make sure systems work well and that meters can be read accurately.

Inspect your roof

A harsh winter can cause wear and tear on your roof. Clear off any remaining snow or ice to prevent pooling. From the curb, look for any depressions on the roof caused by heavy snow. Get on the roof and nail down loose flashings. Check for curling shingles and tuck-pointing on the chimney. If damage is extensive, call a professional roofer.

Check gutters and downspouts

With snow melting and spring rain on its way, your house needs clean gutters and downspouts to prevent water damage. Scoop out clogged gutters, and then rinse with a garden hose. Use a hose with a spray attachment to unclog downspouts or a plumber’s snake for stubborn clogs.

Inspect basements or crawl spaces for seepage

Melting snow often saturates the ground and can seep into basements and crawlspaces.
Check for dampness and water lines.

Do safety checks around the house

Check smoke and carbon monoxide detectors by holding down the test button until the alarm sounds. Replace batteries or detector if necessary. Make sure your fire extinguisher’s pressure gauge needle is in the green zone. Inspect the pin and tamper seal, and check that the extinguisher is showing no signs of damage. Review fire escape routes with your family and make sure locks to doors and windows are working.

Check and repair any damaged screens

Winter weather can cause screens to rip or come out of their frames. Repair or replace screens now so when it’s warm enough to open windows, you won’t be inviting bugs in along with the fresh air.

Adjust thermostat for season change

Lower or reprogram your thermostat to take advantage of warmer weather. Enjoy the lower utility bills before the summer sun forces you to turn on the air conditioner.

Change the setting on the humidistat or air exchanger controller as needed. As the weather warms up, the air becomes more moist. If you don’t adjust your humidistat accordingly, excess moisture could cause condensation on your windows that can turn to frost during chilly early-spring nights.